Long before Angkor Wat — two hundred years before — the Khmer were already building stone and brick cities. Sambor Prei Kuk, in the forest near Kampong Thom, was the capital of the Chenla kingdom in the 7th century. It is now a UNESCO World Heritage site, and on most days you will share its sandy paths with little more than butterflies, woodpeckers and the occasional water buffalo.
The drive — three hours through real Cambodia
Sambor Prei Kuk is 175 km east of Siem Reap, along National Road 6. We leave at 7 am with cold towels and water in the car. The drive itself is part of the day: rice fields, stilt houses, palm-sugar stands, busy market towns and the wide, brown Stung Sen river.
We make one stop at a roadside Khmer coffee shop — a small ritual you will start to enjoy by the second day in Cambodia.
Prasat Sambor — the northern group
We start with the northern group of temples, dedicated to the god Gambhireshvara. The towers are square, built of red brick, and decorated with flying-palace reliefs you can still trace with your finger.
Jungle has grown over many of the doorways. The smaller sanctuaries are wrapped in roots in the same way as Ta Prohm — only here, you usually have them entirely to yourself.
Prasat Yeai Poeun — the central group
A short walk through the forest brings you to the central group, the most photographed part of the site. The famous octagonal towers stand here — an unusual shape that does not appear anywhere else in Khmer architecture.
Look for the medallion reliefs of lions and elephants near the doorways. Some have survived almost unchanged for fourteen centuries.
Prasat Tao — the lion temple
The southern group is dominated by Prasat Tao, the ‘Lion Temple’, guarded by a pair of stone lions on a high terrace. Climb up just before noon — the light through the forest is exceptional, and the whole site feels timeless.
Lunch and the road home
Lunch is at a small community restaurant on the edge of the site, run by villagers from a local craft cooperative. Try the chicken amok, the river fish, and the green mango salad.
We drive back in the afternoon, arriving in Siem Reap before sunset. It is a long day, but for travellers who love history without crowds it is one of the most rewarding day trips in the country.
Practical tips from our driver-guides
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